Green or blue-green in color, the White's tree frog is a native of Australia, Indonesia, and New Guinea. It is a well-liked frog due to its small size and many facial expressions, such as sleepy eyes and a grinning lips. Additionally, compared to other popular tree frog species, it can survive more drier circumstances thanks to the waxy covering on its skin, giving it a better fit for indoor situations. For a novice frog keeper, a White's tree frog is a suitable option.
Common Name: White's tree frog, dumpy tree frog
Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
Adult Size: Three to five inches long
Life Expectancy: Typically up to 16 years, although 21 years has been reported
White's Tree Frog Behavior and Temperament
Nocturnal, or active at night, is the term used to describe White's tree frogs. These frogs are generally docile and stationary; they frequently grow amiable and tolerant of handling.
All amphibians, meanwhile, have extremely sensitive skin that readily absorbs substances, thus handling them requires the utmost caution. Even the natural oils and salts present on human skin are harmful, so make sure to completely wash your hands with warm water and then fully rinse them with non-chlorinated water, ideally tank water. Before touching your pet, avoid using lotions or even soaps since the residues they leave behind are poisonous to frogs.
Housing the White's Tree Frog
Since White's tree frogs spend the most of their time in trees in the natural, they require a habitat with lots of climbing stimulation. One adult frog should be housed in a 15 to 20 gallon tank that is high or tall. The best tank shape is a hexagon.
These frogs feature suction-cup footpads that will allow them to readily scale aquarium glass walls, therefore a tight-fitting cover is crucial. If the frogs are comparable in size, you can keep more than one of them together in the same habitat; otherwise, your larger frogs can try to consume the little ones.
Frogs don't understand transparent barriers as well as you'd hope (they will try to move toward objects they can see), but they do understand black walls, so placing a piece of paper a few inches tall around the outside of the bottom of the tank may help if the frogs have a tendency to rub their nose along the glass in an attempt to wander outside the habitat.
For climbing, provide a variety of branches, substantial chunks of cork bark, and leaves. Keep in mind that these surfaces must be quite solid to withstand the weight of these stocky frogs. Use genuine, live plants with substantial, sturdy stems. Make sure there are no pesticide or fertilizer residues on the plant or in any of the plant soils. To make tank cleaning easier, live plants in terrariums should be housed in compact, movable pots.
The black paper covering the rear of the tank aids the frog in finding a private, dimly lit sleeping spot during the day. The frog can sleep by clinging to the rear of the tank under the shelter of the bark by laying a sizable piece of bark diagonally across the cage, a few inches from the back wall. To allow the frog to hide out and relax, utilize any kind of dense plant cover or an indoor space with several exits.
Spot-clean your frog's cage every day, wiping off any large bits of waste matter from the plant leaves and the bottom of the tank. Use non-chlorinated water to change the water dish daily.
To generate a gradient of 80 to 86 F (27 to 30 C) during the day and a dip to 72 to 78 F (22 to 25 C) at night, place a basking light or heater outside on only one side of the cage. To ensure that the right temperatures are being maintained, use thermometers with both hand-held and sticker-mounted thermometers on the tank.
Use only nocturnal bulbs if a light is required at night and keep the lighting soft. Establish a consistent 12-hour cycle for light and darkness; this works nicely. Since these frogs are nocturnal, no extra illumination is needed. Although some UVB exposure won't harm your White's tree frogs, it is not essential.
Even in the case of this arboreal frog, creating and maintaining an environment like its natural warm, wet, tropical home will benefit from the use of a decent substrate in the enclosure. Large-sized washed gravel should be used to build the tank's floor, which should then be covered with soil devoid of chemicals. Then, add extra foundation with large pieces of bark; cover any exposed soil with sphagnum moss to help retain moisture that will offer the humidity these amphibians require.
Avert pebbles or bark shavings that are too fine for frogs to mistakenly eat. For temporary tanks, some keepers choose a simpler strategy that involves merely lining the tank with paper or paper towels to make cleaning easier. With this basic floor covering, it is considerably more difficult to maintain the right humidity.
Measure the relative humidity within the tank using a hygrometer; as these meters' results might fluctuate over time, you should calibrate them once a year. By spraying this frog's habitat every day with dechlorinated or bottled (not distilled) water, you can keep the humidity level between 60 and 70 percent. There should also be a bowl of the same water available. All water that will be utilized in the enclosure should rest at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours in an open container to come up to room temperature and to off-gas any dissolved gases.
Due to the presence of used in the water purification process, pure tap water should not be used with frogs and other amphibians. If you must utilize a chlorinated water source, dechlorinate it first using a dechlorination kit (available at pet stores). However, never use distilled water as it lacks the necessary minerals that all animals require in their drink. Instead, use bottled water.
Food and Water
Feed live crickets as the majority of your White's tree frogs' food. Insecticide-free moths, beetles, cockroaches, grasshoppers, and earthworms are examples of additional live foods. Even fully adult White's tree frogs occasionally eat pinkie mice. Put live insects in the cage or present them using forceps with a blunt tip or a flexible tip, but make sure the forceps won't hurt the frog's mouth or tongue when they make contact with the insects.
Your frog's nutritional requirements will vary a little, but you should be mindful that White's tree frogs are prone to obesity. Do not overfeed. Feed giant frogs (those longer than three inches) a few large crickets every two to three days, modifying as necessary based on activity and physical condition. Every two to three days, give smaller frogs three-week-old crickets, and feed young frogs every day.
The frog's overall health is the greatest indicator of how much to feed. Just above the frog's eardrum, search for ridges. If there are no discernible ridges, the frog is probably underweight and needs to be fed more frequently or in bigger quantities. Reduce feedings by no more than 50% if the ridges start to stand out and begin to sag or fold over, indicating that the frog is fat.
All insects that are fed to amphibians must first be filled with nourishing substances in their guts. The prey items must also be dusted with a calcium-vitamin supplement. For adult frogs, just once per week should be done; for medium-sized frogs, twice or three times per week; and for extremely young frogs, daily should be done.
Use a dish that is big enough for the frog to comfortably sit in, but not so deep that there is a risk of drowning; tree frogs are not great swimmers. Frogs like to get into their water dish to rehydrate and soak.
Common Health and Behavior Problems
The greatest significant health risk to White's tree frogs is a condition called chytridiomycosis, which is brought on by the chytrid fungus. The majority of amphibian species have experienced a significant reduction in population due to the rapid spread of this deadly illness in the wild. There are few therapies for this illness, which is marked by lethargy and weight loss.
Choosing Your White's Tree Frog
The key factor making it crucial to get your White's tree frog exclusively from trustworthy breeders who can attest that your pet has been captive bred and is disease-free is exposure to the chytrid fungus. White's tree frogs that are reared in captivity, like many exotic pets, are the creatures that are more resilient to the confined environment. The strains of confinement may be too much for frogs that have been taken in the wild.
Additionally, amphibians taken from the wild may infect your environment with parasites or other diseases. An excellent place to start when looking for a new pet amphibian is at reptile exhibits and internet breeders. To ensure that the frog has a strong appetite, which is a sign of excellent health, you should preferably be able to see it feed. Nonetheless, avoid purchasing any frogs you haven't had the opportunity to view in person.
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How popular are White's tree frogs?
Very popular, as they're both easy to care for and an exotic pet!
What are White's tree frogs carriers of?
Like many other frogs and amphibians, White's tree frogs may carry Salmonella and Ranavirus.
How active are White's tree frogs at night?
Very! White's tree frogs are nocturnal after being lazy and sleeping much of the day.